So you've bought that brand new bag, how will you keep it looking new even after 20 years?

Leather is a material of timeless elegance, a symbol of craftsmanship, and an investment that, when cared for correctly, can last a lifetime. However, not all leather is the same. If you’ve ever bought a luxury bag and wondered how to keep it looking pristine, this guide is for you.

Let me take you through a fool-proof way to identify your leather and the best ways to care for it.

"Love your leather, and it will love you back!”

 

Step 1: Identifying Whether Your Leather Is Coated or Uncoated

Why This Matters

Coated and uncoated leathers have entirely different care needs.

Coated leather has a protective finish usually made from polyurethane (PU) or acrylic resins, making it more resistant to stains and moisture. For coated leather, you typically will notice that they do not have the natural leather grains, but rather an embossed texture;

Uncoated leather, on the other hand, is more natural and breathable but requires extra care. You will be able to see the natural grains on the leather itself. However some of these leather do have a light coating on them such as full-grain leather. While some might not have any coating - such as aniline, suede and nubuck leather.

 

Fool-Proof Identification Tests

1. The Water Drop Test

Take a small drop of water and place it on an inconspicuous part of your bag. Observe how the leather reacts:

- If the water absorbs quickly, your leather is uncoated (e.g., full-grain, suede, nubuck, aniline leather).

- If the water beads up and stays on the surface, your leather is coated (e.g., patent leather, pigmented leather, corrected grain leather).

2. The Touch & Texture Test

Run your fingers across the leather’s surface:

- Uncoated leather has a soft, natural feel with visible pores or a matte appearance.

- Coated leather feels smooth, slightly waxy, or plastic-like due to the protective finish.

 

3. The Breathability Test

Press your palm against the leather for a few seconds:

- Uncoated leather absorbs warmth and may change tone slightly.

- Coated leather remains unchanged because the protective layer blocks absorption.

 

How to Care for Coated vs. Uncoated Leather

Coated Leather (Patent, Pigmented, Corrected Grain)

- Wipe with a damp cloth and mild leather cleaner.

- Buff with a microfibre cloth to maintain shine.

- Avoid alcohol-based cleaners that may strip coatings.

Uncoated Leather (Full-Grain, Aniline, Suede, Nubuck)

- Condition regularly to prevent drying.

- Use a waterproof spray for protection.

- Avoid excessive moisture and direct heat.

 

Step 2: Identifying Leather Type by Its Flexibility and Scratch Resistance

1. Full-Grain Leather: The Best of the Best

Identification: Scratch the surface lightly—if it marks but blends back over time, it’s full-grain.

Feel: Firm yet supple with natural imperfections and texture.

Care: Use a leather balm to condition and enhance patina.

2. Top-Grain Leather: Smooth and Refined

Identification: Bend it gently—top-grain has some flexibility but feels slightly processed.

Feel: Smooth, polished, and softer than full-grain.

Care: Clean with a mild leather cleaner; condition occasionally.

 

3. Genuine Leather: Budget-Friendly but Less Durable

Identification: Uniform texture, often embossed or painted to look like higher-quality leather.

Feel: Lighter and thinner than top-grain or full-grain.

Care: Use a leather conditioner but avoid over-wetting, as it can peel.

 

Step 3: Identifying Specialty Leather Types (Suede, Nubuck, Patent)

1. Suede: Soft, Velvety, and High-Maintenance

Identification: Soft, fuzzy surface that changes direction when brushed.

Care: Brush with a suede brush to maintain the nap. And use a protective suede spray. Never use water—opt for a suede eraser for stains.

2. Nubuck: A Luxurious Upgrade to Suede

Identification: Feels like suede but denser and more durable.

Care: Use a nubuck cleaner and soft brush. Store in a breathable bag and avoid prolonged sun exposure to prevent fading.

 

3. Patent Leather: The Glossy Showstopper

Identification: High-shine, stiff texture, smooth finish.

Care: Wipe with a microfiber cloth to remove smudges. Use petroleum jelly or olive oil to maintain shine, and store separately to avoid scuffing.

 

4. Lambskin: Soft, Luxurious, and Delicate

Identification: Extremely soft and smooth to the touch, with a fine grain and natural elasticity.

Care: Use a gentle leather conditioner to keep it supple. Avoid sharp objects that may cause scratches, and store in a breathable bag and keep away from excessive moisture.

5. Saffiano Leather: The Scratch-Resistant Icon

Identification: Cross-hatch embossed texture with a waxed finish, often seen in luxury handbags.

Care: Wipe with a damp cloth for cleaning or use a gentle cleaner. If needed use a leather conditioner very sparingly to prevent wax buildup, and store in a dust bag to maintain structure.

 

Step 4: Everyday Leather Care Routine

Regardless of the leather type, here are universal best practices to keep your bag in top condition:

1. Store Properly: Keep in a dust bag with tissue stuffing to maintain shape.

2. Avoid Overloading: Heavy contents can stretch the leather and weaken straps.

3. Protect Against Moisture: If caught in the rain, blot dry immediately and let air-dry naturally.

4. Rotate Usage: Avoid using the same bag daily to prevent excessive wear.

5. Regular Cleaning: Wipe with a soft cloth and use appropriate cleaners based on leather type.

Final Tip: Always Check the Manufacturer’s Label

Many designer bags include a label specifying the type of leather. If you’re ever unsure, refer to the brand’s website or consult a leather expert for maintenance recommendations.

By understanding the different types of leather and how to care for them, you ensure your investment pieces remain as beautiful as the day you bought them. Love your leather, and it will love you back for years to come!